02 június, 2013

Namaste Everyone!

I’m already on my way home it’s funny because my plane left from Kathmandu at 16.25 and I suppose to arrive to Budapest at 16.25 next day local time. J As it was quite predictable I didn’t have time in the last days to post on the blog, but here it comes now.

So at the end I’ve spent 2,5 weeks in Kathmandu ashram. After a touching goodbye from Terai children I enjoyed the company of the people in Kathmandu, children and elders as well.

/zöldségek a piacon/

On the weekend I went to the market to sell some organic vegetables, grains and milk products. Though the business doesn’t go too well nowadays we had great time. Usually during the day everyone is busy with all kinds of works, but on the market I could talk with the girls. One of them just visited her homevillage for the first time since she left it as a child many years ago. And she had really a great time there. The villagers were very welcoming everyone came to visit so she had a very nice time. She was not the only one who went home for a visit, and their reactions were the same, they came back very happily filled up with great experiences from the warm welcome and love what they received in their villages.

 On the weekdays in the morning I was mostly helping out in the garden having a great time with the people in the meanwhile. We were picking carrots, taking out the bad weed, planting chilly, etc. The taking out the bad plants and arranging the good ones was a task like a Piéron attention test. Because there were 2 types of plants that had to stay in the ground, one good vegetable what we needed to take out and collect it and the other bad weed had to be taken out too. So I really needed to pay attention take it out or not, if yes where to put. So yes you can get mentally tired while working in the garden! J But I enjoyed it.


On the afternoons I was teaching in the school here. On the first week I had all the 5 classes (one-two-three-seven-eight). Class three was great there were only 5 children and they were eager to learn English from me, we really became close in these 2,5 weeks, in the last 3-4 days they came every day to visit me in my room when they had some freetime. Class two and one were a lot more challenging. In class two there are 12 students and they are quite lively and they don’t really understand English so it was difficult to explain them what I want to do, even when I wanted to play, nobody seemed to pay attention and understand. Almost every day there was a small fight between them. So the first week started like that, but by the second week I managed to find a way to teach them too. Class one I gave up, with them I really couldn’t do anything they did whatever they wanted, so for 2 days I played with them, but then I gave back the class to the boy who originally had them, because when some conflicts came up between the kids during lesson I was helpless, because I didn’t understand the problem. I really enjoyed “teaching” class seven. I have to admit I didn’t really teach them in the conservative meaning of the word. Because I was just having casual conversation with them about how they like their days here and about what’s going on in Terai without them. I really like them, they are a very good class, with lot’s of nice children. I mean all children are nice, but for some reason I feel especially attached to class seven… Class eight were nice too, them I didn’t know before so I was only talking with them too, or helping with their maths homework. J They are very nice people too, so it’s a pity that I haven’t spend more time with them. But after the first week I chose to teach English only in class three and two. And in the afternoon I was teaching them how to make bracelets from threads. J

/making bracelets

They enjoyed braceletmaking a loooot. Really every day there were around 15 of them coming, asking me for threads or help to start or to learn a new way of making it. There were 2-3 children who learned it quickly and even invented new styles. J So it was a very successful project. Now I have 14 bracelets on my left hand and one on my right. I got many presents. J

I hope it will stay a good memory for them. Two elder boys who are in their twenties now told me that around 8-9 years ago there was a tourist here from America who taught them the same and they still remember. They still have it as a great memory. So I hope some of these children will also remember after 8-9 years that we made bracelets together. Though I hope to be back before!
/cleaning the cow's place in the afternoon/

In the evening I helped with chapatti as usual. J Though in the last few days I had to prepare my goodbye presents for here too, and the constant presence of the children in my room (what I enjoyed very much) made it difficult. They came to make more bracelets. And I’ve also taught them how to draw in paint on the computer, they enjoyed it a loooooot, that you can change colours with one click try out different versions before deciding. J I think a 10 year old average child from my country would not be fascinated by paint. Though I’m sure in the rural area the reaction would be the same.
/Learning something new/

We had two special days when we were concreting the roof of the main kitchen building and the school building. Those were hardworking days, many outside workers came too to help and everyone was busy from the ashram too. 

/the new roof/

The workers were wearing plasticbags over their clothes and on their feet to protect it from the cement, because it opens up the small wounds on your skin. (I went up to the roof on barefoot, it was not a good idea). I havent’t been on a construction site lately, I have some foggy memories about my grandparents renewing their house, but I think it was around 12-13 years ago. 

/having a little break and drinking curd/

When we were doing the roof of the school we had to carry up the stones in bags and baskets because the material by the school  was over before they could finish the top. So everyone took a sack or a basket and we were going in line like ants. Even the small ones joined the work, carrying one spadeful of stones. I had a great fun with them, competing who goes faster, singing Hungarian children’s song for them. They were racing who can hold my hand on the way down. J And we started to call each other boyni/bhai and didi, so brothers and sisters. 


 /carrying stones/

And I really felt like that. The older ones who go to outside school class nine and then joined the line after school. It’s so unbelievable, they have some days when there is 12 hours of school for them… Who can concentrate for 12 hours? And after they arrive home, they join the work… Hardworking people really. I hope I can take this habit with me so I will spend my days in a useful way in my country too.

 /The ashram and the valley behind/

It’s really amazing that all of this, the ashram started 20 years ago. It’s visible how much hard work, they have put into it. And they always continue to develop. They bought a new land in the hilly region, so in the future there will be a third branch there, they will start the work next month by flattening the land. If I would still be here for a few months I would have loved to go and see how they put down the foundation of a new place. But I’m already on the way home. Next time I come there might even be some house to stay in there. J

/ going on a little excursion/

It really wasn’t easy to leave. I spent more than 24 hours at the end with goodbyes, because I didn’t want to miss anyone. It was sometimes with tears rolling down on my cheeks, sometimes with a wide smile. The day before yesterday with four girls I had a little goodbye walk in the forest, it was fun! JAnd on my last night, they helped me to put on a sari, their traditional cloth, so I could see how would I look like. J They even put black hair on me, so I can look perfectly nepali. Well for me the result is quite unusual. J The eastern way of goodbyes contains way less hugging then what I would have genuinely done. I wanted to hug and kiss all the children, but I didn’t. But I’ve got some warm hugs from the elders that comforted me. 
/having some fun last night in a sari/

From the children I’ve got so many drawings and letters. I’ve already some of it, it’s very sweet. The letters of some elder ones really made me feel great and touched and emotional. And they made me a “kurta” a kind of blouse what they are always wearing. It is beautiful. I’m wearing it now. J I know that my time here was lifechanging for me and I got to know so many wonderful people, and when I realize that it’s not only them who became important for me but they also feel the same way it does break my heart a bit. But I’m gonna be fine, because they are gonna be fine to. And we will see each other again. Not with everyone I guess, but I hope with a lot of them… It's not an "us" anymore….

 /I also prepared some colourful letters/

There might be certain things I’m changed in. The first new thing right now, is that I’m unusually calm. Really. I used to be worrying a lot when it comes to flights, about unnecessary things on what I have no influence, but still it worries me. But not now. Now I’m calm and just going with it. Its new, but a great feeling, peaceful. Am I gonna be like this from now on? I like it! J

And probably my first reaction when meeting with someone will be joining my hands in front of my chest not straightening my right arm for a handshake. I might be surprised to find hot water in the tap when I want to take a shower. And I would feel lucky to find electricity whenever I need it.  Not to mention how glad I am that we have a washing machine and I don’t have to wash everything with my hands anymore.  If someone asks me to draw a flower I will not draw the usual margarita what I used to but more something lotuslike. JMaybe I’m gonna eat rice every day now or if not then maybe I will miss it, and the green things what we were eating and I will miss the spicy food. Though I was not using my hands for eating I will definitely miss the freedom of eating habits. I might pour over my soup on the rice at the dining hall by habit, I’m not used to eat rice plain just like rice, I liked to pour the dhal all over it…. And probably I’m gonna sit on the floor much more often than before. I would pay attention not to go in front of someone when he or she in eating on the floor but go behind, but I’m not sure I’m gonna meet with this situation. If I would own a driving license I’m sure I would use the horn way too many times compared to my culture. Ohh and I’m gonna miss the cows from the city, who were calmly wandering around and everyone was letting them be. But the littering habit I could not get used to it. That when you finish something you just throw the wrapping on the ground, even after 5 months I still put it in my pocket until I find a garbage bin, so that habit of mine fortunately could not change. I might go to bed early and wake up around 5 every morning. But I’m afraid I will go back to my old habits with staying up late and getting up late, but I’ll see.

Now my sense of time is really disturbed. I tried to sleep a few hours I managed to sleep around 4-5 in small 20-30 minutes parts. I was wondering around at the airport in New-Delhi. It’s very big and new and nice. Mostly I did window-shopping only, and I ate dinner (chicken after 5 month of vegetarian life) and a mango-sorbet ice-cream from Haagen-dazs. I know it’s luxury, but I haven’t had ice cream in Nepal and I missed the mango season I left too early so I just went for it.

Now I still have around 3,5 hours until boarding time. And there is no internet access available on the airport unless I have an Indian mobile number, which is not a good system I think. But I hope I can upload this from Munich.  There are already some travel companions where I’ve been what have I done in Nepal for five months. And I talk about it, but the realization still didn’t come that it is over, I’m not gonna see these people for quite some time now. Even Ama (grandma) said to me with concern and care in her eyes to earn money and come back as soon as I can. So yes I’m attached to from the four year old little ones until the seventysomething elder ones with all the agegroups in between, they are my second family. And I hope to return to them again.
/Good-bye Nepal!/

Thank you for reading me. This experience was wonderful for me and I’m sure on paper is not as good as living it. So you should come to Nepal and discover it yourself, it’s a beautiful country with beautiful people.
My nepali days are over. But here comes the question do you want me to write more about my time here? I mean I spent my 146 days in Nepal, but I could not update very regularly. And I did write a journal for myself every day.And if you would be interested to read more I will figure out a way to share it with you.

This is my first time writing a blog. So if you’ve read me regularly and followed my days or if you’ve just popped by now to check it it doesn’t matter please leave a short comment on how you like it. So I know your opinions. J Thank you.

All right. So I’m gonna come with an extra post about my trekking soon. But in a way this is the end. I’m really grateful for everyone who helped me to make this journey. And I’m grateful for everyone with whom I met during this journey. I’m full with happiness and with many-many great memories.

Good-bye! Namaste!

PS.: I’ve been listening music a lot lately. And there are some great lines that helps me to describe how do I feel. J

I don’t know why but I can’t seem to find the right melody today. I can’t make the words fit how I feel. (Skye Stop complaining)
Remember those walls I build, they are trembling down And they didn’t even put up a fight, they didn’t even make a sound…. It’s like I’ve been awakened. (Beyonce Halo)
Here I am, this is me there is nowhere else on Earth I’d rather be… It’s a new world it’s been a new start. It’s alive with the beating of the young hearts. It’s a new day, it’s a new plan. (Bryan Adams Here I am)
Hold on hold on my brother, my sister hold on tight. I finally got my orders. I’ll be marching through the morning, marching through the night, moving cross the borders of My Secret Life. (Leonard Cohen In My Secret Life)
And in the air the fireflies our only light in the paradise. We will show the world they were wrong, and teach them to sing along. If everyone cared nobody cried if everyone loved nobody lied if everyone shared and swallowed their pride… Imagine what the world could be. (Nickelback If everyone cared)
And it’s over, I’m going under. I’m not giving up, I’m just giving in. Never let me go, never let me go. (Florence and the machine Never let me go)
Pushing pushing pulling moving on. A sense of freedom we’ve been hanging on. I’ve cut the chord and now it won’t be long… (Matt Cardle Starlight)
Where do I go from here. I’m so lost. Do you know how hard it is? … Looking through my gallery drowning in my memories… Never felt like this in my life. (Mclean Broken)
I was kissed by a gentler wind than given back my breath… I’m flying over the misery and all that it could bring…. a forest filled with laughter filled with songs from every tree. This new season is forever. Bud and sprout beyond belief.  (Ayo Believe)
Hold up, hold on, don’t be scared, You’ll never change what’s been and gone. May you smile… Shine on… Don’t be scared, Your destiny may keep you warm… Just try not to worry, You’ll see them some day. Take what you need, and be on your way. (Leona Lewis Stop crying your heart out)
My heart told my head let love grow, but my head told my heart this time no this time no. (Mumford and Sons Winter Winds)
At night I fell asleep with visions of myself dancing and laughing and crying with them. I believe in the person I want to become. I believe in the freedom of the open rode… I believe in the kindness of the strangers. … I am free. (Lana Del Rey Ride monologue)

26 május, 2013

It’s unbelieveable how fast my time in Nepal pass away. I remember not so long time ago counting the days at home how many days do I have before leaving to Nepal. And already I have to count my days how many I still have left here… 5… And it’s gonna fly away I know.

It will be great to see my family and friends. I do miss them by now. But I don’t want to say goodbye to this special place, this life and all these people who got really close to me. I cannot think about this as a goodbye forever.
/with the children in Terai, on my last day - Csoportkép a gyerekekkel az utolsó napomon/

I’m in a goodbye mood, because I already had to leave the Terai ashram where I spent most of my time. So how did I spend my last 2,5 weeks in Terai?

After the trekking I spent a few days in Kathmandu. I wanted to be back in the ashram in time to help in the preparation and to see the 20th anniversary of the foundation of the ashram. It was a very nice program, though I preferred the Terai program in February. Maybe because I was more involved, or because it was not inside or I don’t know. But this was also very-very nice, with songs, dances, yoga demonstration and some speeches.

/yoga demonstration on the program - jóga bemutató a programon/

 I’m trying to learn one dance coreography now, but it’s more difficult then it seems, so I’m not sure if I succeed or not. Besides the performances there was a 24 hours recitation of Sri Aurobindo’s Savitri. I joined the reading for one hour. It was a great experience, though I can not say I totally understood what I was reading but at least some parts. 

 /reciting the Savitri - felolvasás a Savitriből/

 After the program next day I could witness an interesting ceremony. The boys who undergo the ritual get a thread around their upper body which is made from 6 threads that  ”contain” mantras and they will wear it for the rest of their life, once a year they change it. It gives protection and it also helps you to lead a better life, there are some rules you have to follow like not telling lies, and telling mantras every day if you wear the thread. I’m not sure if really all the people who undergo this ceremony will actually wear the threads every day and live up to it. But it’s a nice thought, and if it helps to make a right choice even in a few situations it worth it. I’m sure it’s a more complex thing, but this is what I remember. J It was a nice ceremony with chanting mantras, giving offerings to gods, and receiving the threads.
/special ceremony - egy különleges szertartás/

By the time I arrived back from my trekking, there was a girl from Belgium, Flore in the ashram. Most of the tourists here are not in my age, so I was happy to see a young girl like me. We talked, worked and spent a lot of time together, I enjoyed discussing ashram experiences and any other thoughts on the world or on anything. We had some deep discussions about life and some light talks about everyday things too. She became my roommate and my really good friend in these 2,5 weeks. It’s great that I could have both some alone time and some 24 hours socially active time during my stay here. 

/with Flore in Terai - Flore-rel Terain/ 
(as you can see she is also tall so we were the "giants" toghether from this time)

 So Flore also came to Terai. We went with the bus of the ashram together with the students of class 3 who are now the students of class 4. (As I wrote before class 4-5-6 are studying in Terai, so one-one class is changing every year.) We had to bring back to Terai lots of matrasses and blankets, because there were 200 visitors in Kathmandu ashram, so they had to bring the things from Terai too to be able to give accomodation for them. Our bus looked like a giand bed in the inside. At the beginning of the ride I was sitting, but after a few hours I joined the children up on the pile of matrasses and blankents, where we spent the journey half-asleep and later playing.

/feeling comfortable on the busbed - előnye is van ha matracokat kell szállítani a buszon/ 

As we got to Terai I understood why everyone says „It’s really hot there”. When we arrived it was already evening, but I could just sit not doing anything and the water was pouring through my skin. Before I have never sweat like in this 2,5 weeks. Sometimes I looked if I just came out of a swimmingpool, but not. Well surely its a good cleaning system for the body. Fortunately not all the days were like that. When there were no electricity and we were without a fan, well than it was quite difficult I wished to wear only a bikini. But would have been only possible behind my closed doors. My body is used to weatherchanges now it’s crazy that this extreme hot weather and  the windy-snowy mountains are only a hundred kilometers away.

So we arrived to Terai with 14 „new” children and the next day class 6, ready to be class 7 left to go to Kathmandu. It was strange to be in Terai without them. Different people were milking the cows, making chapatti, seperating cream, etc. But after a few days I started to get used to it. What was confusing though was that there are some clothes that changed owners. So the football jersey’s what the boys are wearing were mixed up. So when I saw someone from behind and they turned I was expecting someone else in the shirt, but I guess if I spent more time with them I would have got used to the new owners of the jerseys.

/boys and their valued jerseys - fiúk és a megbecsült focimezek/

I was amazed that after a hard working day how can the boys run to play football when they finish with their evening duties. Even in this hot season. But two times I joined them with Flore, we weren’t too active, but a few times I could kick the ball and other times confuse the attackers. J The second match ended with a little accident so I might have a nice little scar line above my right eye as a memory to not to forget my time here. But I’ve seen a little boy stepping in a nail causing a bad injury and he was running the next day on his bandaged feet, the other little boy cut his shin so badly it needed several big stitches but a few hours later he was proudly showing his stitches to the others. So I cannot say anythig. These accidents with the littleones happened in Kathmandu. In Terai the hospital had to deal with fingercuts as the new children were getting to learn now to use a sickle. And some skinproblems. Because of the insectbites and the sweating sometimes your skin itch, but if your nails are not clean and you scratch and sweat, it gets really ugly… But these children here are very tough, I gave up making comparisons to children in their age in my country, they are just too spoilt compared to these nepalease kids.

 /last day's football match - foci az utolsó napomon/

The new schoolyear started. I continued to teach English in all 3 classes, and we had a Maths course together with Flore in class 6, that was challenging. And an art class as an extra class for class 4 and 5. We made more bracelets, and Flore was teaching them to draw, we were singing or just playing.

We organized a treasurehunt for them too. There were 4 groups and each group had to find 14 cards hidden all around the ashram there were cards hidden between the brick of the house, sticked to the number of the cows in their ears, up on trees, in the ground. The game didn’t have a happy ending though, because the group who got to the treasure first didn’t find all the 14 cards… But later I went to the market in the village and got some sweets for everyone to sweeten the bitter taste of dissapointment. We went to the market where apparently almost everyone else from the nearby villages went. It’s the Friday program. On the way we saw women dressed in same saris, I’ve learned that women form social groups to help each other when it’s needed, because there is no real governmental social aid and that day was a meeting they and from the same group they wear the same saris. And these groups of women meet every month to decide on their charity activity. Each member can turn to the group with their individual problems too, and they try to help each other. I’m amazed that it’s a working self-organized system. I mean if it’s really working. The idea is really great.

Another day we all went to swim in a small river nearby, called Ultikhola. It was really small and quite muddy. But I kept my promise to teach a bit of swimming, we had a lot’s of fun. J Almost all the children came though not everyone felt the urge to dive in the water despite the hot weather. But with some children we were having a bath together with the oxes nearby. J And about teaching swiming I think in the future I will stick with the swimmingpools, rivers are not easy environment.

/having fun in Ulti khola - pancsolás az Ulti khola folyóban/

Teaching, hunting for treasure, swimming, these were the afternoon or during the day program sin the mernings and evenings we worked on the field or int he gardern usually. We were planting tormarick? roots what looks similar to ginger and they make spices from it. We planted to the same field where on my first day I planted the potatoes as my first experience with karmayoga. So my first and almost last work took place on the same field. Unfortunately I was not here when they collected the potatoes… We also planted many-many bananas. Every 4 year they have to change the ground, the soil of the banana trees if you want to have nice bananas. So now we re-planted a whole new bananaforest, with couple of hundred banana trees. And at wintertime there will already be bananas on them. The bananatrees are surprisingly light. It doesn’t have a hard trunk and it contains a lot’s of juice, which by the way doesn’t come out of your clothes. We carried a lot’s of fertilizer, for the bananas and on other fields also. And 5 months ago I would not have thought that there will be a moment in my life when I will fight over cowdung, but well you never know what brings the future. J As we carried the valuable fertilizer on the field we were having a playful competition who can carry more sacks. So when a sack was ready to carry we had to fight for it otherwise we had to wait for the next one. J A month ago I was thinking that I did all kinds of works here except which involves touching a lot of cowdung, but now I had a chance get this experience  too. I don’t say that this is the work I’d like to do from now on, but I had no problem with it.

/carrying fertilizer - trágyázás közben/
(the boys enjoy the truckride a looot, I've tried it a few times, but it's too bumpy for me)

Many mornings I spent between the vegetables picking out the bad weeds. Though it’s not always obvious which is the bad one since they/we eat here a lot’s of green things what we don’t eat in Europe, or at least in my home. When I was helping out in the kitchen one day I had to cut a green hill of plants what I considered as „bad plant” in the previous 2 days so I’d learned that’s eatable, and quite tasty.

/making "parotha" for breakfast - "parotha" készítés reggelire/

I’ve learned to cook some easy things, so I hope I can prepare it in Hungary too. I’ll take some special spices what I’m not sure that can easily be found in my country.

In the evenings I either helped to cut the grass for the cows or to make chapatti, sometimes both. The grasscutting machine is also a place to compete, who can cut how many sacks of grass without stopping, and there is the hard grass and the soft one. J So we always had fun while working. We mix the dry grass with the fresh one before giving it to the cows. At the end I was not afraid from them anymore. And one day I could almost milk one cow on my own! J There are some boys who milk 8-9 so I still have to improve a lot if I want to impress them, but for me it was already an achievement. J

/Mixing the grass for the cows - fű keverése a teheneknek/

 I’ve learnt the chapatti making. I know all the steps, and they even told me now I’m a champion in flatting the balls into a perfect round shape. It made me feel good. Well I had a lot’s of great teachers, who taught me not only how to make chapatti but some nepali songs at the same time too. My nepali knowledge is still very week. I know more and more words, so I can guess the topic of the conversations, but I cannot make sentences… Next time I plan to learn more.

 /saying goodbyes with a little surprise - búcsúzás kis meglepetéssel/

 I prepared some surprises for all the children, and on my last day in school at the end of the assambley I gave it to them after a short speech. It was really short because I became too emotional after the first sentence and I didn’t want to cry so I cut it short. It turned out to be great, most of them were happy with their small gifts. To see all the smiling faces made me happy too and sad at the same time that I have to leave them. They also prepared nice things for me, I was really touched I did’nt expected it. Class six made something for me together, they were really sweet. J

/reading the letter from class six - a hatodikosok ajándéka/

I said my goodbye to the place, but it didn’t feel as a real goodbye. My journey, adventure is not over yet, I still have some time in the Kathmandu ashram. So from the people it was a goodbye and I know it would have been a lot more difficult to leave if the children werw not sleeping (because I left at 3 am in the morning).

So now I’m enjoying my last week here. I plan to write 2 more times. One about my last two weeks in Kathmandu and one about my trekking, because I only posted photos.  I will try to update the blog once more in the next 4 days but the „trekking special” I think I will only write on the airport (in New Delhi I have 15 hours between my flights), so I will upload it if I have internet there. In the meanwhile this is the blog of a boy from Pokhara who helped me with my trekking so you can check it out http://nepalpokhara8848.blogspot.com/.

See you soon! I mean those ones who are waiting for me at home. I can see that I have some readers from all around the world. I hope you like to read it, because I love to live it! J

Namaste from Nepal!

28 április, 2013


Fantasztikus időt töltöttem Pokharában és a hegyek között. Végül egyedül indultam útnak meghódítani a Himalája Annapurna régiójának egy részét. Csodálatos élmény volt. Nem volt időm rendes beszámolót írni, de néhány képet megosztok most veletek.

Most indulok a Terai ashramba, nem tudom meddig leszek ott 2-4 hétig. Utána innen, Kathmanduból jelentkezem!

Dear Everyone!

I had fantastic time in Pokhara and the between the mountains. Finally I went alone for trekking and it became a beautiful and special adventure in the Annapurna region of the Himalayas. It was a wonderful experience. I had no time to write about my journey but I will share some photos.

Now I’m going to Terai ashram, when I’m back in Kathmandu I’ll write again, so around 2-4 weeks.


 Phewa lake, Pokhara, this was the view when I fell in love with this country again
sky-volley, instead of beach volley, the Himalaya style

 Paraglilding, next time I will try this too
 sunset at Phewa lake
 The view at the start of my trek
 my first sunrise on the trek
 my friendly travel companions

 Marpha, the village of apples

 children on the way to school
 on the third day the biggest challenge was the wind and the dust
 like a desert
 Kagbeni, a beautiful oasis in the stonedesert
 making hot water using the sun

 Upper-Mustang region

 The view from 4800 meters
 A wonderful village, Lupra