26 május, 2013


It’s unbelieveable how fast my time in Nepal pass away. I remember not so long time ago counting the days at home how many days do I have before leaving to Nepal. And already I have to count my days how many I still have left here… 5… And it’s gonna fly away I know.

It will be great to see my family and friends. I do miss them by now. But I don’t want to say goodbye to this special place, this life and all these people who got really close to me. I cannot think about this as a goodbye forever.
/with the children in Terai, on my last day - Csoportkép a gyerekekkel az utolsó napomon/

I’m in a goodbye mood, because I already had to leave the Terai ashram where I spent most of my time. So how did I spend my last 2,5 weeks in Terai?

After the trekking I spent a few days in Kathmandu. I wanted to be back in the ashram in time to help in the preparation and to see the 20th anniversary of the foundation of the ashram. It was a very nice program, though I preferred the Terai program in February. Maybe because I was more involved, or because it was not inside or I don’t know. But this was also very-very nice, with songs, dances, yoga demonstration and some speeches.


/yoga demonstration on the program - jóga bemutató a programon/

 I’m trying to learn one dance coreography now, but it’s more difficult then it seems, so I’m not sure if I succeed or not. Besides the performances there was a 24 hours recitation of Sri Aurobindo’s Savitri. I joined the reading for one hour. It was a great experience, though I can not say I totally understood what I was reading but at least some parts. 

 /reciting the Savitri - felolvasás a Savitriből/

 After the program next day I could witness an interesting ceremony. The boys who undergo the ritual get a thread around their upper body which is made from 6 threads that  ”contain” mantras and they will wear it for the rest of their life, once a year they change it. It gives protection and it also helps you to lead a better life, there are some rules you have to follow like not telling lies, and telling mantras every day if you wear the thread. I’m not sure if really all the people who undergo this ceremony will actually wear the threads every day and live up to it. But it’s a nice thought, and if it helps to make a right choice even in a few situations it worth it. I’m sure it’s a more complex thing, but this is what I remember. J It was a nice ceremony with chanting mantras, giving offerings to gods, and receiving the threads.
 
/special ceremony - egy különleges szertartás/

By the time I arrived back from my trekking, there was a girl from Belgium, Flore in the ashram. Most of the tourists here are not in my age, so I was happy to see a young girl like me. We talked, worked and spent a lot of time together, I enjoyed discussing ashram experiences and any other thoughts on the world or on anything. We had some deep discussions about life and some light talks about everyday things too. She became my roommate and my really good friend in these 2,5 weeks. It’s great that I could have both some alone time and some 24 hours socially active time during my stay here. 

/with Flore in Terai - Flore-rel Terain/ 
(as you can see she is also tall so we were the "giants" toghether from this time)

 So Flore also came to Terai. We went with the bus of the ashram together with the students of class 3 who are now the students of class 4. (As I wrote before class 4-5-6 are studying in Terai, so one-one class is changing every year.) We had to bring back to Terai lots of matrasses and blankets, because there were 200 visitors in Kathmandu ashram, so they had to bring the things from Terai too to be able to give accomodation for them. Our bus looked like a giand bed in the inside. At the beginning of the ride I was sitting, but after a few hours I joined the children up on the pile of matrasses and blankents, where we spent the journey half-asleep and later playing.

/feeling comfortable on the busbed - előnye is van ha matracokat kell szállítani a buszon/ 

As we got to Terai I understood why everyone says „It’s really hot there”. When we arrived it was already evening, but I could just sit not doing anything and the water was pouring through my skin. Before I have never sweat like in this 2,5 weeks. Sometimes I looked if I just came out of a swimmingpool, but not. Well surely its a good cleaning system for the body. Fortunately not all the days were like that. When there were no electricity and we were without a fan, well than it was quite difficult I wished to wear only a bikini. But would have been only possible behind my closed doors. My body is used to weatherchanges now it’s crazy that this extreme hot weather and  the windy-snowy mountains are only a hundred kilometers away.


So we arrived to Terai with 14 „new” children and the next day class 6, ready to be class 7 left to go to Kathmandu. It was strange to be in Terai without them. Different people were milking the cows, making chapatti, seperating cream, etc. But after a few days I started to get used to it. What was confusing though was that there are some clothes that changed owners. So the football jersey’s what the boys are wearing were mixed up. So when I saw someone from behind and they turned I was expecting someone else in the shirt, but I guess if I spent more time with them I would have got used to the new owners of the jerseys.

/boys and their valued jerseys - fiúk és a megbecsült focimezek/

I was amazed that after a hard working day how can the boys run to play football when they finish with their evening duties. Even in this hot season. But two times I joined them with Flore, we weren’t too active, but a few times I could kick the ball and other times confuse the attackers. J The second match ended with a little accident so I might have a nice little scar line above my right eye as a memory to not to forget my time here. But I’ve seen a little boy stepping in a nail causing a bad injury and he was running the next day on his bandaged feet, the other little boy cut his shin so badly it needed several big stitches but a few hours later he was proudly showing his stitches to the others. So I cannot say anythig. These accidents with the littleones happened in Kathmandu. In Terai the hospital had to deal with fingercuts as the new children were getting to learn now to use a sickle. And some skinproblems. Because of the insectbites and the sweating sometimes your skin itch, but if your nails are not clean and you scratch and sweat, it gets really ugly… But these children here are very tough, I gave up making comparisons to children in their age in my country, they are just too spoilt compared to these nepalease kids.

 /last day's football match - foci az utolsó napomon/

The new schoolyear started. I continued to teach English in all 3 classes, and we had a Maths course together with Flore in class 6, that was challenging. And an art class as an extra class for class 4 and 5. We made more bracelets, and Flore was teaching them to draw, we were singing or just playing.

We organized a treasurehunt for them too. There were 4 groups and each group had to find 14 cards hidden all around the ashram there were cards hidden between the brick of the house, sticked to the number of the cows in their ears, up on trees, in the ground. The game didn’t have a happy ending though, because the group who got to the treasure first didn’t find all the 14 cards… But later I went to the market in the village and got some sweets for everyone to sweeten the bitter taste of dissapointment. We went to the market where apparently almost everyone else from the nearby villages went. It’s the Friday program. On the way we saw women dressed in same saris, I’ve learned that women form social groups to help each other when it’s needed, because there is no real governmental social aid and that day was a meeting they and from the same group they wear the same saris. And these groups of women meet every month to decide on their charity activity. Each member can turn to the group with their individual problems too, and they try to help each other. I’m amazed that it’s a working self-organized system. I mean if it’s really working. The idea is really great.

Another day we all went to swim in a small river nearby, called Ultikhola. It was really small and quite muddy. But I kept my promise to teach a bit of swimming, we had a lot’s of fun. J Almost all the children came though not everyone felt the urge to dive in the water despite the hot weather. But with some children we were having a bath together with the oxes nearby. J And about teaching swiming I think in the future I will stick with the swimmingpools, rivers are not easy environment.


/having fun in Ulti khola - pancsolás az Ulti khola folyóban/

Teaching, hunting for treasure, swimming, these were the afternoon or during the day program sin the mernings and evenings we worked on the field or int he gardern usually. We were planting tormarick? roots what looks similar to ginger and they make spices from it. We planted to the same field where on my first day I planted the potatoes as my first experience with karmayoga. So my first and almost last work took place on the same field. Unfortunately I was not here when they collected the potatoes… We also planted many-many bananas. Every 4 year they have to change the ground, the soil of the banana trees if you want to have nice bananas. So now we re-planted a whole new bananaforest, with couple of hundred banana trees. And at wintertime there will already be bananas on them. The bananatrees are surprisingly light. It doesn’t have a hard trunk and it contains a lot’s of juice, which by the way doesn’t come out of your clothes. We carried a lot’s of fertilizer, for the bananas and on other fields also. And 5 months ago I would not have thought that there will be a moment in my life when I will fight over cowdung, but well you never know what brings the future. J As we carried the valuable fertilizer on the field we were having a playful competition who can carry more sacks. So when a sack was ready to carry we had to fight for it otherwise we had to wait for the next one. J A month ago I was thinking that I did all kinds of works here except which involves touching a lot of cowdung, but now I had a chance get this experience  too. I don’t say that this is the work I’d like to do from now on, but I had no problem with it.

/carrying fertilizer - trágyázás közben/
(the boys enjoy the truckride a looot, I've tried it a few times, but it's too bumpy for me)

Many mornings I spent between the vegetables picking out the bad weeds. Though it’s not always obvious which is the bad one since they/we eat here a lot’s of green things what we don’t eat in Europe, or at least in my home. When I was helping out in the kitchen one day I had to cut a green hill of plants what I considered as „bad plant” in the previous 2 days so I’d learned that’s eatable, and quite tasty.

/making "parotha" for breakfast - "parotha" készítés reggelire/

I’ve learned to cook some easy things, so I hope I can prepare it in Hungary too. I’ll take some special spices what I’m not sure that can easily be found in my country.


In the evenings I either helped to cut the grass for the cows or to make chapatti, sometimes both. The grasscutting machine is also a place to compete, who can cut how many sacks of grass without stopping, and there is the hard grass and the soft one. J So we always had fun while working. We mix the dry grass with the fresh one before giving it to the cows. At the end I was not afraid from them anymore. And one day I could almost milk one cow on my own! J There are some boys who milk 8-9 so I still have to improve a lot if I want to impress them, but for me it was already an achievement. J


/Mixing the grass for the cows - fű keverése a teheneknek/

 I’ve learnt the chapatti making. I know all the steps, and they even told me now I’m a champion in flatting the balls into a perfect round shape. It made me feel good. Well I had a lot’s of great teachers, who taught me not only how to make chapatti but some nepali songs at the same time too. My nepali knowledge is still very week. I know more and more words, so I can guess the topic of the conversations, but I cannot make sentences… Next time I plan to learn more.

 /saying goodbyes with a little surprise - búcsúzás kis meglepetéssel/

 I prepared some surprises for all the children, and on my last day in school at the end of the assambley I gave it to them after a short speech. It was really short because I became too emotional after the first sentence and I didn’t want to cry so I cut it short. It turned out to be great, most of them were happy with their small gifts. To see all the smiling faces made me happy too and sad at the same time that I have to leave them. They also prepared nice things for me, I was really touched I did’nt expected it. Class six made something for me together, they were really sweet. J

/reading the letter from class six - a hatodikosok ajándéka/

I said my goodbye to the place, but it didn’t feel as a real goodbye. My journey, adventure is not over yet, I still have some time in the Kathmandu ashram. So from the people it was a goodbye and I know it would have been a lot more difficult to leave if the children werw not sleeping (because I left at 3 am in the morning).

So now I’m enjoying my last week here. I plan to write 2 more times. One about my last two weeks in Kathmandu and one about my trekking, because I only posted photos.  I will try to update the blog once more in the next 4 days but the „trekking special” I think I will only write on the airport (in New Delhi I have 15 hours between my flights), so I will upload it if I have internet there. In the meanwhile this is the blog of a boy from Pokhara who helped me with my trekking so you can check it out http://nepalpokhara8848.blogspot.com/.

See you soon! I mean those ones who are waiting for me at home. I can see that I have some readers from all around the world. I hope you like to read it, because I love to live it! J

Namaste from Nepal!

28 április, 2013

Sziasztok!

Fantasztikus időt töltöttem Pokharában és a hegyek között. Végül egyedül indultam útnak meghódítani a Himalája Annapurna régiójának egy részét. Csodálatos élmény volt. Nem volt időm rendes beszámolót írni, de néhány képet megosztok most veletek.

Most indulok a Terai ashramba, nem tudom meddig leszek ott 2-4 hétig. Utána innen, Kathmanduból jelentkezem!

Dear Everyone!

I had fantastic time in Pokhara and the between the mountains. Finally I went alone for trekking and it became a beautiful and special adventure in the Annapurna region of the Himalayas. It was a wonderful experience. I had no time to write about my journey but I will share some photos.

Now I’m going to Terai ashram, when I’m back in Kathmandu I’ll write again, so around 2-4 weeks.

Namaste!
Eszter


 Phewa lake, Pokhara, this was the view when I fell in love with this country again
sky-volley, instead of beach volley, the Himalaya style

 Paraglilding, next time I will try this too
 sunset at Phewa lake
 The view at the start of my trek
 my first sunrise on the trek
 my friendly travel companions


 Marpha, the village of apples



 children on the way to school
 on the third day the biggest challenge was the wind and the dust
 like a desert
 Kagbeni, a beautiful oasis in the stonedesert
 making hot water using the sun

 Upper-Mustang region








 The view from 4800 meters
 A wonderful village, Lupra



11 április, 2013

Hello Everyone!
I’m lazy. They use this expression many times even when I don’t see that they would be lazy, cause they are working much harder then what I’ve used to see. I prefer to say I’m tired. But now I can honestly say I was lazy to write blog in the last few days.

So now I’m in Kathmandu ashram again. I had to come to the city to extend my visa. I’m already here for more than 3 month!!!  It flew away soooo fast. Though if I think about how many things happened already it makes sense that it’s 3 months. (And after 3 month a few days ago I could have my first hot shower, I can manage with the cold now, but I still prefer the hot one.)

So what happened after getting back to the ashram from the elephant-riding fun. I had to take local transport back. That means I had to change 2 times, so I was really proud to find my way back home. Home. I wrote that in my diary accidentally. But if I think about it it does feel like home. J I became so attached to everyone and the place. After I got back it turned out we only have one week until the final exams of the year. So I was busy revising the book with the classes and trying to create a fair exam for them. I didn’t want anyone to fail on “my subject” so that then they have to repeat the year. I wanted other subjects to be the judge on that thing. So my aim was to create an exam where everybody can reach 40% which is the pass mark, but the ones who studied harder will score higher. I wrote little texts to all classes to read and then answer the questions, there was a writing part too, questions about the stories in their book and some grammar. And it worked, nobody failed. So I’m happy. They can’t know the results yet, but after the exam the next few days I became really popular, the children were trying to break me. It wasn’t easy, but I held my mouth. The system is, that class 4-5-6 studies at Terai ashram, so class 6 will so to Kathmandu if they pass all their exams, and class 3 will come to Terai. They had 6-7 exams: maths, science, nepali, English, social, population (only for class 6) and general knowledge. This last one is about the ashram and Sriaurobindo and the Mother. They had one exam every day from 12 until 3 pm. In the morning and evening time they could study. It was a hard week, mostly for them.


 /writing an exam/
On the English exam day it was a really nice festival day. Holi. They paint each other with paint powder and sometimes add waterfight too. So we looked very colorful at the end, I really enjoyed it. J They are having different colours of paint-powder in their hands and they chasing each other. The colours are made from natural things I think because the red paint what I got to my face tasted like berries.
/Holi festival/

After the exams were over we started to cut wheat. At first I was really careful, because 2 days before I cut my finger really badly with the sickle while cutting grass for the cows, and I promised Ama (=Mother), when she gave me a sickle for the wheat-cutting not to cut any fingers. So I was helping with the wheatcutting for 3-4 days every day for around 3 hours. It was tough, at least for me. I started at 8 am, but at 11 it was already really hot on the sun. They started around 20 minutes before me, and when it was finished some of them continued to cut grass for the cows. So they are really hardworking. I managed not to cut any fingers! J But some of the children were not so lucky. They could cut soooo fast. I seemed like a snail next to them, but I could see the development in my technique and speed in these few days.

 /cutting wheat/
The afternoons were free, because of the heat we could not do anything. So we played in my room. Or sometimes when they are allowed they jump in the well in the middle of the garden.
 /having fun on a hot day/

One day we went for a picnic to Narayni river. I really enjoyed it. We took ricepudding with us what we ate on the riverbank. And on the way back under a big tree we played a funny game. They had to imitate each other, certain habits of each other. I didn’t understand most of it, but sometimes they translated, and there were a few which I could get myself. (By the way my nepali knowledge is still nowhere… I’m not a good student… So I guess I won’t learn nepali this time. I will have to come back to practice more.)



/group photo on the picnic/

They already told me not to leave and that they will miss me so I should come back soon. But I had to leave to extend my visa. And I was hoping to see some friends in Kathmandu ashram also. I left with Kolhuwa tiger, the same microbus which took me to Terai before. We left around 3 am and I was in Kathmandu around 9.30 am. I took some organic vegetables with me for the market. As I got off the bus I was busy getting all the luggage and I had to buy credit for my phone to call the ashram that I arrived so they can send someone to help me. I didn’t know that there is a taxi already waiting for me, he accidently put someone else’s bag into the car, and when I tried to explain that is not mine he didn’t understand. So in this confusion I forgot the tomatoes by the road, the tomatoes which I kept safe during all journey. But when I came back to the junction from the ashram to my surprise the tomatoes were still there by the road, so there was no problem about it.

I’ve received a warm welcome from the people whom I’ve already known. The same day in the afternoon I left to do my visa business. A boy offered to take me to the immigration office. This was my luck. He not only took me but he decided to come inside. The problem with my visa was, that at the airport the man who put the 90 days stamp in my passport wrote the expiry date in 15 days. So it was written 90 days from the 8th of January. But for expiry date it was 22nd of January, which is not 90 days. I noticed it at the airport that something is wrong, but it was already at the luggage claim and the only official person I’ve seen told me it’s fine so I proceeded. They sent me up to the overstayed visa department, the guy from the ashram came with me. In the office they told me to go was empty, later an arrogant Italian guy and his lawyer came. He had to spend the previous 1,5 days in chastity because he was trekking without permit (he says he lost it). So now he is waiting for the decision whether he will be officially departed from the country or not. If he is, then he won’t get a visa next time to Nepal… I was confident that I have no problem I had my recite of the 100 dollars I paid for the 90 days and I had my plane ticked to prove that the date of arrival is good on the stamp. Here comes the luck part, the man in charge of the overstayed visa issues was out of the building and was not coming back that day (lesson learned: don’t go to extend your visa in the last moment). But the guy from the ashram went to the next office and met with someone he knew from before and that person called the man in charge who gave permission to someone else to decide in my case. J So it was a successful story. I got 45 days extension instead of 30. So I only have to come back around 2 weeks before my flight to extend with 10 more days.

In the last few days I visited Kathmandu a little bit. Both with local and tourist eyes. I’ve been in a hospital as a visitor. I was expecting worse conditions, though I still don’t want to be treated there, the hygienic standards are a bit different, but it seemed organized and cleaner than I expected. I’ve visited a lawyer’s office, which was nice; big bookshelf with thick serious-looking books, carpet on the floor, carved wooden ceiling, nicely-dressed gentlemen, the table full with papers, so it showed the signs of work too. Then I was walking a bit in Thamel, which is the tourist area I could not say no when I’ve seen a European style bakery. Yes, what I’m really missing beside the people close to me are sweets, cakes, chocolates. So I wanted to eat a “chocholate snail” but there was only a cinnamon version, which turned out to be with peanuts, so it was not the taste I was hoping for but it was good anyway. I’ve tried some nepali food also: mo-mo. These are stuffed cooked pasta balls covered in an orange sauce, I’ve tried vegetarian and chicken version, I like both. I’ve visited a carpet factory where they make handmade carpets, so I could see how the women and men are making the knots.  They worked incredibly fast, and they had to follow a pattern. I was amazed. Some of their beautiful children were hiding between the rows. But once they got familiar with the camera, they really enjoyed it. J There were different techniques, some had to cut the threads and comb it after each line so it becomes thicker and softer. As they make more and more from the carpet they raise the bench they are sitting so that it’s not uncomfortable to work. I mean for me it would still be. And the place was not too bright, I would need more light to do work like that.

And I’ve also visited Swayambu, which is a Buddhist temple on a hill above the city. It is really nice, with the huge eyes looking over the valley and with all the colourful prayer flags.  There are many monkeys who might even attack you if you have anything to eat with you. But those I’ve seen were nice and calm, though they moved enough that I had difficulty capture them on the camera.


 /Swayambu (maybe its misspelled)/

As for work I helped out in the mill to do the Cinderella work, sometimes I get the right movement, but still not too many times, but I’m ok with picking out the seeds which were not cleaned by the machine. And a few days ago we went for washing carpets in Trishuli river. It was FUN. I woke up at 4 in the morning, helped in the kitchen to pour milk into plastic bags, they deliver it like that, it’s an every day job, but I’ve only did it once, usually I sleep until 6 am. So we left a bit before 6 we supposed to leave at 5 am, but in Nepal time is really flexible. Or you have to be flexible when it comes to time. We went with the truck, I’ve got a first class ticket to sit inside, while most of the others were sitting on the carpets in the back. It took around one hour to get there. Then we carried the carpets to the water, where competitions started who can through a stone across the river and the other one was to make the stones jump on the surface before sinking. I don’t know the right English expression, it’s called “kacsázás” in Hungarian. J A few minutes they started to put the dirty carpets in the water weighting them down with biiig stones. When all the carpets were in the water they started to brush it and clean it one by one first in the water, then they brought it out where we put washing powder on it and rubbed it with torn up plastic sacks. The skin came off from my fingers but besides that it was an amazing they with lots of fun. 
 /the amazing place where we washed the carpets/
There were 3 people responsible for cooking, so we had really good food. They even brought sweets (yes sweets, sometimes I eat sweats, but far less than at home, at least now I know that sweets are important for me) which I like. I thought I understood a part of a nepali conversation about knife, I thought they mention it because it is difficult to break it into pieces the little melted sweet, but chaku is knife and cháku is the name of the sweet (or something similar, it might be the opposite way). So there were no mention of any knife… J But I’m learning slowly. When we had some break some of us went into the river. It was extremely cold, but I enjoyed it. I even tried to teach some swimming, but in cold fast flowing water it’s not too ideal. After work we crossed the hanging bridge and walked a bit in the village and on the hill. The view was beautiful. The way back home was really slow, while we were washing the carpets some locals filled the back of the truck with the sandy soil from the riverbank what they need for the construction (they are building more floors over the dining room-kitchen building). So we were heavier and we had to go up the hill, and the truck was fighting hard, working hard but going slow. It was so hot inside that I changed my first class ticket to an outside one and sat on the carpets with the others.


/the method of carpet washing/

Today I’m leaving to Pokhara, which is another big city. And I will see the Himalaya from closer. I would like to do some trekking, but I have no group yet. If I can join one I will do a 7-8 days of trekking if I don’t find any, then it might be only a few days of hiking near Pokhara. In the first few days I plan to enjoy Pokhara, and celebrate the nepali new year’s eve there which is on the 13th of April, after that it’s already 2070. You see, time really flies in this country! J

Hope not to be lazy and write again after the excursion to Pokhara, so maybe in 2 weeks.
Namaste from the sunny Nepal!
Eszter

PS.: Can someone tell me how to rotate the photos? Before uploading the standing ones are standing, but here they are not....